Arles, France — A Day Trip Guide
A self-guided walking tour through Van Gogh’s Arles, Roman ruins, and the contemporary LUMA Arles campus. Built from an on-the-ground visit on August 20, 2026.
At a Glance
| Time needed | 5–6 hours (half-day option possible) |
| Walking distance | ~3 km loop |
| Difficulty | Easy — flat, cobbled old-town streets |
| Best for | Families, art lovers, history buffs |
| Starting point | Central parking garage, Arles |
| Best season | Spring–early fall (check weather alerts for Bouches-du-Rhône in summer) |
Route Overview
The walk forms a loop starting and ending at Arles’ central parking garage. It combines three layers:
- Van Gogh Trail — outdoor plaques at the actual sites where Van Gogh painted, with reproductions and quotes from his letters
- Roman Arles — UNESCO World Heritage sites (amphitheatre, baths) still in use today
- LUMA Arles — Frank Gehry’s contemporary art campus on a former railway yard (optional add-on, worth the detour)
Route Map
| Order | Stop | Type | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | L’Entrée du Jardin Public (Jardin d’Été) | Van Gogh plaque | 12:30 |
| 2 | LUMA Arles / Parc des Ateliers | Contemporary art campus | 12:36–13:58 |
| 3 | Old town streets | Historic center | ~14:57 |
| 4 | Les Arènes d’Arles plaque | Van Gogh plaque | 15:06 |
| 5 | Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles | Art museum (optional) | 15:47 |
| 6 | Espace Van Gogh (former hospital) | Van Gogh plaque + garden | 16:44 |
| 7 | Thermes de Constantin | Roman baths | 16:59 |
| 8 | Rhône riverside | Scenic walk | 17:01 |
| 9 | La Maison Jaune (Yellow House site) | Van Gogh plaque | 17:11 |
| 10 | Les Arènes (Roman Amphitheatre) | Roman site | 17:24 |
| 11 | Esplanade Charles de Gaulle | Memorial + carousel | 17:43 |
Stop-by-Stop Guide
1. L’Entrée du Jardin Public (Jardin d’Été)
Van Gogh plaque — painted October 1888. The original is at The Phillips Collection, Washington D.C.
The plaque includes a quote from a September 1888 letter to Theo about the extraordinary light in Arles and painting without “following rules.” This is the natural starting point — right where you park near the Jardin d’Été (public garden).
2. LUMA Arles / Parc des Ateliers
A worthwhile modern detour off the historic Van Gogh trail. Plan 60–90 minutes here.
What It Is
Not a traditional museum — a year-round interdisciplinary creative campus mixing exhibitions, performance, research, and artist residencies on the site of a former SNCF railway marshalling yard (abandoned since the mid-1980s). Swiss arts patron Maja Hoffmann acquired the 11-hectare site in 2013 and founded LUMA Arles.
The campus includes:
- 8 restored 19th-century industrial buildings (architect: Annabelle Selldorf)
- Landscaped park (Bas Smets)
- Frank Gehry’s “The Tower” — twisted stainless-steel tower, opened June 26, 2021. First high-rise built in Arles since 1974. Gehry has said the design nods to Van Gogh’s Starry Night and the region’s rock formations — a direct architectural link to the Van Gogh theme, built 130+ years after he painted here. ~€150M project, funded by Hoffmann.
What’s Free vs. Paid
| Free (no ticket) | Paid (ticket required) |
|---|---|
| Tower entrance and terraces | Exhibition galleries |
| Isometric Slides by Carsten Höller | |
| Rooftop terrace panoramic views | |
| Landscaped park and outdoor sculptures | |
| Les Forges courtyard |
Bottom line for families: The free stuff (slides, terraces, park, Franz West sculpture) is the main event. Save the paid galleries for an adults-only visit.
Highlights Inside the Tower (All Free)
Isometric Slides (Carsten Höller) A 12-meter-high double spiral steel slide facing the Tower’s double-helix staircase. Höller did similar large-scale slides at Tate Modern in 2006. A huge hit with kids.
Laguna Gloria (Liam Gillick, Level 2) Permanent installation using film stills from Gillick’s 2013 film Margin Time 2 (The Heavenly Lagoon), shot at the real Laguna Gloria gardens in Austin, Texas. Wallpapered into an “artificial garden” rest/transit space.
Rooftop Terrace (~56m up) Panoramic view over Arles’ terracotta rooftops out to the Camargue plain and hills toward Beaucaire/Tarascon. Excellent orientation point — the flat green expanse is the Camargue delta, famous for wild horses, flamingos, and village fête culture. Don’t skip this, even on a short visit.
Open Space (Konstantin Grcic, Levels 8–9) Metal mesh curtains dividing and softening the circulation space near the terrace. An architecture/design intervention by German industrial designer Grcic — about how the space feels rather than a narrative artwork.
“The Library is on Fire” (La Bibliothèque est en feu) Permanent installation by Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster (with Martial Galfione, text by Charles Arsène-Henry). Since 2011, a self-generating “experimental library” — screens cycle through excerpts from books and films, including Edgar Allan Poe’s Landor’s Cottage in Charles Baudelaire’s own translation, and Charles Péguy’s 1914 essay on Bergson. Baudelaire’s Poe translations were historically significant — he’s the writer who introduced Poe to France.
Outdoor Highlights (Free)
Franz West pink knot sculpture — 13-meter pink biomorphic sculpture on the lawn near Café du Parc. One of LUMA’s June 2021 opening commissions, fabricated posthumously from West’s designs.
Les Forges courtyard — Rotating outdoor design commission with woven fabric canopies and colored pavilion frames shading café seating.
Current Exhibitions (Aug 2026)
- Gerhard Richter — “Overpainted Photographs” (The Tower) — Richter paints directly over his own photographs. Running May 2026 – Jan 2027.
- Camille Henrot — “In the Veins” — Immersive audiovisual installation.
- Stan Douglas — “Bodies Never Lie” (La Mécanique Générale).
- Diane Arbus VR experience — opened July 2026.
Visit coincides with Les Rencontres d’Arles, the city’s annual photography festival — LUMA is one of 40+ heritage sites hosting exhibitions, running through late September/early October.
Honest assessment: The Richter/Henrot shows are dense, conceptual, and adult-oriented. Not likely to hold a 12-year-old’s attention the way the free slide or Roman amphitheatre will. If visiting with kids, do a focused 30–40 minute gallery visit max, with the free tower/park/slide as the main event.
Practical info: Daily 10am–7:30pm (summer season from July 7 onward).
3. Old Town Arles
About an hour gap between LUMA and the next logged stop — this is a good time for lunch. The old town has quiet historic streets with monumental carved stone archways, wrought-iron lanterns, pale stone facades, and pastel wooden shutters typical of Arles’ center.
Lunch recommendation: Place du Forum area (see the Van Gogh trail below) or near the amphitheatre. The Café Terrace at Night location (Place du Forum) is touristy and overpriced — skip eating there, but do see the view from the NE corner.
4. Les Arènes d’Arles Plaque
Van Gogh plaque — original at the Hermitage, St. Petersburg. Depicts a mock bullfight crowd scene. Quote from a letter to Émile Bernard, April 1888, describing the simulacres de combats (mock fights) and the “magnifique” colorful crowd more than the bullfighting itself.
5. Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles (Optional)
Budget 45–60 minutes. Only 1–2 actual Van Goghs — no permanent collection, rotating contemporary exhibits. August 2026 show: SUSPECTS — Van Gogh, Tricksters & Co.
Set expectations before going, especially with kids expecting more than 1–2 real paintings. On our visit, we skipped the exhibition as not kid-friendly enough and went for coffee instead. Save this for an adults-only outing.
6. Espace Van Gogh (Former Hospital)
Van Gogh plaque — Le Jardin de la Maison de Santé à Arles. Original at the Oskar Reinhart Collection, Winterthur, Switzerland.
This is the former Hôtel-Dieu where Van Gogh was treated after the ear incident. The garden has been replanted to match the painting exactly — Arab-style whitewashed arcaded gallery, central pond, eight flowerbeds, orange and oleander trees. The quote is from an April 1889 letter to his sister Wilhelmine, written while he was a patient here, shortly before he voluntarily committed himself to the asylum at Saint-Rémy. A striking contrast between the calm, detailed appreciation of the garden and what he’d just been through.
Free entry. Closed Sundays.
7. Thermes de Constantin (Baths of Constantine)
Well-preserved 4th-century Roman public baths on the bank of the Rhône. Built as part of Emperor Constantine I’s imperial residence — he actually lived in Arles for a period.
The visible section is the caldarium (hot room), which had three heated pools warmed by an underfloor hypocaust system, plus a large vaulted apse with three windows. Medieval locals didn’t know its original purpose and nicknamed it Palais de la Trouille — rediscovered as Roman baths only through 19th-century excavations.
UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981 — part of the “Arles, Roman and Romanesque Monuments” listing (same designation as the amphitheatre).
Pairs naturally with Les Arènes — same UNESCO listing, different building type. Worth grouping as a “Roman half-day.”
8. Rhône Riverside
Just past the baths, along the river embankment. River cruise boats moored on the far bank. The baths sit right on the river because Roman engineers needed water access for the hydraulic system — the view is basically the reason the site was built where it was.
A good spot for a breather. Near Quai du Rhône / Pont de Trinquetaille — the best viewpoint for Starry Night light, especially late afternoon or dusk.
9. La Maison Jaune (The Yellow House Site)
Van Gogh plaque — original at the Rijksmuseum Vincent van Gogh, Amsterdam. Quote from a May 1888 letter to Theo: Van Gogh describing renting the right wing of the building — painted yellow outside, whitewashed inside — for 15 francs a month.
This is the moment he committed to what became his studio and, later that year, the site of the short-lived artist commune with Gauguin before the ear incident. The original house was destroyed in WWII. The marker is “The Yellow House Easel” at 7 Rue Georges Tinarage, near Place Lamartine.
Easy to miss — no dramatic building to spot, just the plaque/marker. Per visitor reviews, many people walk right past it.
10. Les Arènes (Roman Amphitheatre)
The real thing — not just the Van Gogh plaque of it. Built c. 90 AD, originally seated roughly 20,000 spectators for gladiator contests and chariot races. One of the best-preserved Roman amphitheatres anywhere.
Still an active, working venue today — hosts bullfighting-style corridas and other public events. Not a museum piece, a functioning space. Kids can climb around the tiers.
~€11 entry. Same UNESCO listing as Thermes de Constantin.
11. Esplanade Charles de Gaulle
Memorial marker with a carousel visible behind it — a striking juxtaposition of WWII commemoration next to a kids’ fairground ride. Reproduces text of de Gaulle’s famous June 1940 rallying message: “La France a perdu une bataille! Mais la France n’a pas perdu la guerre!”
Note for accuracy: This widely-reproduced poster version is often conflated with de Gaulle’s actual radio broadcast (the Appel du 18 juin). The real June 18 speech was never recorded, and this poster text is dated slightly later in 1940 despite being labeled “Juin 1940, Londres.” Captures the spirit accurately but isn’t a verbatim transcript.
Good kid-break spot — the carousel is right there if traveling with younger children.
Additional Stops (Not on the Main Route)
Place du Forum — Café Terrace at Night
Stand in the NE corner for the view that matches Van Gogh’s painting. The café itself is touristy and overpriced — skip eating there. A quick photo stop between the old town and the amphitheatre.
Musée Réattu (Optional)
Van Gogh letters + local painters. Closed Mondays. Skippable if pressed for time. Good indoor fallback on a rainy day.
Alyscamps
Roman necropolis — both Van Gogh and Gauguin painted it. A quiet wind-down stop at the end of the day if you have energy left. Not on the main loop; a short detour south of the old town.
Practical Tips
Parking
Central parking garage in Arles — start and end point for the whole loop. Well-located between the Jardin d’Été and the old town.
Opening Hours & Closed Days
| Site | Closed | Entry |
|---|---|---|
| LUMA Arles (Tower/park) | Open daily 10am–7:30pm (summer) | Free |
| LUMA Arles (galleries) | Open daily 10am–7:30pm (summer) | Paid |
| Espace Van Gogh | Sundays | Free |
| Fondation Van Gogh | Check website | Paid |
| Musée Réattu | Mondays | Paid |
| Les Arènes | Open daily | ~€11 |
| Thermes de Constantin | Check website | Paid |
Plan your day around closed days — Mondays and Sundays affect different sites.
Weather
Check weather alerts before committing to the full walk — Bouches-du-Rhône gets summer thunderstorm and heat advisories. The Fondation or Musée Réattu work as indoor fallbacks. On our visit, the weather held for the whole day despite a morning thunderstorm alert.
With Kids
- LUMA Tower slides are the biggest hit — free and fun
- Roman amphitheatre — kids can climb around the tiers
- Carousel at Esplanade Charles de Gaulle — good break spot
- Fondation Van Gogh — skip with kids, save for adults
- The free outdoor Van Gogh plaque trail is more engaging for kids than the paid exhibitions
- Easy walking pace, flat terrain — manageable for ages 6+
Half-Day Option
If short on time, do: LUMA Tower (free highlights, 60 min) → Espace Van Gogh garden (15 min) → Les Arènes (45 min). Skip the Fondation, Musée Réattu, and Alyscamps.
Full Recommended Route (the one we walked)
- Park at central garage → Jardin d’Été plaque (12:26)
- LUMA Arles — Tower, slides, terraces, park (12:36–13:58, ~80 min)
- Walk through old town, lunch (14:00–14:57)
- Les Arènes plaque (15:06)
- Fondation Van Gogh — skip or quick look (15:47)
- Espace Van Gogh — garden and plaque (16:44)
- Thermes de Constantin (16:59)
- Rhône riverside walk (17:01)
- Yellow House site (17:11)
- Les Arènes amphitheatre (17:24)
- Esplanade Charles de Gaulle (17:43)
- Back to parking garage (~17:45)
Total: ~5.5 hours, ~3 km walking, easy pace.
Background Context
Van Gogh in Arles
Van Gogh arrived in Arles in February 1888, seeking the bright light of the South. He rented the Yellow House in May, lived there until the ear incident in December 1888, and stayed in the hospital before voluntarily committing himself to the asylum at Saint-Rémy in May 1889. His Arles period produced some of his most famous works: Starry Night Over the Rhône, The Yellow House, The Café Terrace at Night, The Arena at Arles, and The Garden of the Hospital at Arles.
The city has placed reproduction plaques at the actual painting locations, each with a quote from Van Gogh’s letters. There are more plaques around town than just the well-known ones — stay alert for others while walking.
Roman Arles
Arles was a major Roman city — Emperor Constantine I lived here. The Roman and Romanesque monuments of Arles have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981, covering the amphitheatre, baths, necropolis (Alyscamps), theater, and several Romanesque churches. The amphitheatre (c. 90 AD, ~20,000 seats) and Thermes de Constantin (4th century) are the highlights on this route.
LUMA Arles
Founded by Maja Hoffmann on a former SNCF railway yard. The campus opened June 26, 2021, with Frank Gehry’s Tower as its centerpiece. The site merges Arles’ industrial heritage (19th-century railway workshops) with cutting-edge contemporary art. LUMA hosts exhibitions, residencies, and research, and is a major venue during Les Rencontres d’Arles photography festival.
Guide compiled from on-the-ground notes and photos taken August 20, 2026. Times are local (Europe/Paris) from photo EXIF data.